Trieste: Crossroads of history and tradition

Indeed, walking through the narrow streets of the old city and being caressed by the Bora in winter (an extreme experience at times, but very authentic) and the gentler sea breeze in summer, one realizes how much life has passed through those streets, how many different peoples and people. Its contaminations, once the cause of clashes and contentions, now result in enviable artistic and gastronomic legacies.  

Its monuments cover all historical eras, from the Roman, with the Roman Theater of Trieste (then “Tergeste”), located at the foot of the San Giusto Hill, to the more modern, with the Piazza Unità d’Italia, one of the most striking squares in all of Italy and Europe’s largest square overlooking the sea, with its direct view of the Adriatic Sea, and finally the Risiera di San Sabba, turned into a concentration camp by the Nazis during World War II.

A variety that is also reflected in its cuisine, a jumble of Italian as well as Balkan and Central European flavors. The aperitif is an indispensable ritual, to be celebrated with a glass of Prosecco DOC, or a typical white Spritz. If the glass is then accompanied by a snack, such as the traditional sandwich with ham and kren, a root with a fresh and pungent flavor, the whole thing is called “rebechìn.” This term comes from “rebeccare,” to eat again, a kind of snack, in short. Try the one at Buffet da Gildo’s.

Goulash, made with meat and onions, is perhaps the dish that best represents the multiculturalism of this city; try the one at Rustiko or Osteria Bier Stube. For seafood lovers, on the other hand, La Chimera di Bacco restaurant sums up the perfect blend of tradition and innovation in its menu.  

Leaving the historic city center and moving to the Karst, one can have a more rustic experience in an osmiza, the typical Trieste tavern. This is also where you will find the town of Prosecco, which gives its very name to the Denomination of Origin, and from which you can admire the Gulf of Trieste in its staggering beauty, once you cross the paths carved through the wind-shaped stones. 

And at the end of a good meal, coffee cannot be missed. Its aroma lingers in the air of Trieste, with which it boasts a special bond. Forget the espresso and macchiato, but order a “nero (black),” a “drop,” or a “capo in B,” following the all-Trieste naming. 

For those who want to celebrate the maritime vocation of the city even at the table with a fish-based meal, the restaurant Pier The Roof at Marina di San Giusto offers a menu composed of sea delicacies. For a moment of pure romance, on the other hand, simply enjoy a selection of Prosecco DOC while admiring the sunset from the Terrazza Prosecco.

Trieste, perhaps partly because of its maritime vocation, is a city that is welcoming to those who choose to visit. It is not difficult to find accommodation for all budgets. From the Savoia Excelsior Palace to the Hotel James Joyce, via Ritter’s Room & Apartments and the Residenza degli Artisti. For those who prefer the convenience of a solution that allows them to visit as many monuments and museums as possible, the historic center is dotted with small hotels and apartments. If, on the other hand, one wants to enjoy nature and peace by moving a bit further out of town, the green countryside around the “little Vienna by the sea” (a nickname Triste has earned with its charm) is dotted with farmhouses and romantic resorts, such as the Ostrouska Farmhouse in Sgonico, or the Cardo Boutique&Wine Resort in Malchina.

In short, it is no wonder that literary geniuses such as James Joyce, Stendhal and Italo Svevo chose Trieste to spend part of their enlightened existence there.